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I’m going to redo my aquarium, and I’ll replace the chihiros b series I have with a netlea at5s. The tank is 11” tall.

The Chihoros b series has around 90-110 par at the substrate, the netlea can be way higher than that. I’ll try to get the par raised gradually, starting with around 75-100 and increasing every week or so after I get the tank redone.

I saw someone else tested the par on the netlea light and it was over 400 at the substrate in a similar sized tank.

Good day,

Giving a bit of experience I had with massive amounts of hair and black beard algae and our local water district with my 65 and how I finally got rid of it.

So initially I was running straight tap water in my 65, the water out of the tap had the following parameters.

• PH - 7.5

• KH - 4

• GH - 4

Hello Scapers

I wanted to share my thoughts and experiences injecting CO2 for the first time a little over a year ago on my 65 and my first impressions running my 16 without CO2 for about 2 months. I have two other 16s coming online soon and I may add CO2 to 1, 2 or all three of them in the future, but I wanted to have both types running now because I enjoy the experiences and challenges of a variety of setups.

To be fair we are not really comparing apples to apples here as the 65 has more room for failure than a 16 as changes (and "oops" changes or oh %&!# !!!) are seen a lot quicker in tanks with smaller volume. In addition as I stated above, the 65 has been online for over a year while the 16 has only circulated water with plants fo…

In your lighting video series you suggest a PAR value of 80-120 as a good starting point. I measured PAR from my Twinstar B using the Photone app and found I had the lights way too bright. Fortunately the light is dimmable and I was wondering if I should aim for a PAR of 80-120 at the surface (3 inches below light) or at the bottom of the tank where the plants are. This wasn't really clear in the video series.

Thanks!

CC